New York AW26
Unfolding as distinct visions of American Identity.
CALVIN KLEIN
A circular, industrial set imposed a sense of order from the outset, its symmetry reinforcing a feeling of control that extended beyond the clothes themselves. Set against the sharp clarity of daylight at 11 Hudson Yards, the collection felt immediate, awake, and precise.
Under Veronica Leoni, the palette remained tightly controlled, grounded in neutrals, white, black, grey, and brown, with intermittent bursts of orange, pink, and red cutting through.
Tailoring dominated, with sharp, structured silhouettes and clean lines defining the majority of looks. There was a clarity to the construction, nothing excessive or impractical.
Moments of contrast emerged through exaggerated, more fluid forms, where volume replaced contour and softened the rigidity of the collection. These silhouettes disrupted the precision without undermining it, introducing a subtle tension between control and release.
Referencing the late 70s and 80s, the collection revisited the foundations of Calvin Klein, grounded in American tradition yet sharpened for the present. Masculinity sat at the core, direct and uncompromising, with femininity subtly explored.
This was Calvin Klein at its most self-possessed.
RALPH LAUREN
A grand entrance set the tone, with Gigi Hadid opening the show and immediately shifting the space. The set felt immersive and deliberate, grounded by richly patterned, Turkish-inspired carpets and framed by a central staircase, where models exited with the same quiet confidence they entered.
The collection unfolded through a deeply considered palette, anchored in shades of brown, explored across varying tones, textures, and finishes. Subtle shifts into grey, silver, white,muted greens, and soft beige offered dimension without disrupting the overall mood.
Colour was handled with precision, reinforcing rather than competing for attention.
Tailoring carried the collection, repeated and reworked through strong, structured coats, cinched waists, and belt-led silhouettes that defined the body without restricting it. Layering was key, oversized outerwear enveloping sharper foundations, creating a sense of depth and intention. Moments of fluidity emerged through elongated, maxi-length dresses, offering contrast and movement within an otherwise grounded, winter-heavy wardrobe.
There was a quiet narrative running throughout, one rooted in heritage but never confined by it. As Ralph Lauren himself notes, “I love the adventure of fashion. My Fall 2026 Collection is inspired by that kind of renegade spirit and the confidence of the woman who will wear it in her own personal way—to tell her own story. She respects the timeless quality of things from the past but reinvents them for now. Her style is not defined by time. It’s enduring.” That spirit was evident in the way familiar codes were revisited and reshaped, not for nostalgia, but for continuity.
A wardrobe not bound by time but defined by the woman who wears it.
